Trailblazing 1: I’ve been trying to find a direct route to the south that doesn’t involve death by hill climbing. I came through the town of Neuhausen auf den Fildern, which apparently has been in existence since 1153. It was technically part of Austria until 1802. There are lots more buildings like those in the picture.

We have villages like this all over the countryside here: there are worse places to live.

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